Last month, I followed a winding road into the Mattaponi Indian Reservation in King William County, where Ginger and Lonnie Custalow own and operate Mattapony Reserve, a waterfront winery and restaurant.
An expansive covered patio offers visitors a beautiful view of the Mattaponi River, where fish break the water and eagles are often seen soaring overhead. The Custalows make visitors—who can arrive by land or water—feel at home, greeting them with a warm smile and hug.
“We’re the best kept secret among friends,” said Ginger.
Well, the Custalows must have a lot of friends because on the Sunday afternoon in July when I visited, the small tasting room was packed. A few folks had even braved the heat and humidity to wine and dine on the patio, where there was a slight breeze coming off the river and overhead fans to offer some relief.
The winery is indeed a hidden gem.
“People just find us,” said Ginger.
Their story
“Winemaking was something we were both exposed to growing up,” said Ginger. “Most country people had grandparents that had something brewing in the closet, some kind of fruit wine. When we took it up as a hobby, it was following in suit of our elders.”
The Custalows made wine for many years as a hobby then started “getting serious” by taking winemaking classes in Charlottesville and studying with winemakers.
The decision to open a winery was not a spur of the moment one. “We planned it for eight years,” said Ginger, who is a level two sommelier.
The Custalows built the L-shaped tasting room, kitchen and warehouse building in 2019 and in 2020 started making wine on a larger scale but still in small batches. They opened the winery in October 2022 and will celebrate its third anniversary next month on Halloween.
Because the Custalows deal with small batches, theirs is a more sustainable winemaking process with minimal water usage and minimal environmental impact. They use a winemaking process which relies on the natural fruit flavors and aromas. The grapes aren’t grown on site but purchased from across the Chesapeake Bay, Hampton Roads and Blue Ridge regions of Virginia.
pipe ceremony.
Although they purchase the grapes, the Custalows do everything else, including crush the grapes and age, bottle, cork and label the wine, in house. “We’re a family run business and employ tribal people,” said Ginger.
“When winemakers are dealing with 10,000 or 20,000 gallon barrels, the temperature can soar and can grow bacteria,” said Ginger. “We use 330 gallon barrels.”
Their wine is simply the juice of the grape with yeast ferment. The juice is siphoned off and “we have the natural juice left.”
The wine is aged using French oak, which gives it a smoother finish, she said.
The wines contain no chemicals, no additives or preservatives. Because of that, they don’t produce “sweet” wines per say, although, their wines do have a natural sweetness.
“We make strong, delicious wine but without added sugar. The finish is so smooth, you can actually taste the grapes,” said Ginger.
“Lots of people that have had a bad reaction to wine in the past because of the additives, say they can drink our wines,” she said.
A customer favorite is the reserve’s wine slushy, made with fresh fruit nectar. The day we visited there were two available— guava and mango fruit. Both were yum!
Because there are no sulfites, additives or preservatives, Mattapony Reserve wines are best enjoyed while young and not aged for years on a shelf.
The tasting room
The quaint tasting room is way more than just a tasting room. It’s a museum with dozens of artifacts and photos to admire while you sip on wine. Along the back wall is a showcase of Mattaponi Indian projectile points—all collected from the Mattaponi River—that are 10,000 to 11,000 years old. Native American baskets, pottery, sculptures and photographs are scattered throughout the room. Jewelry, made by Indigenous artisans, is also for sale.
Summer seating in the tasting room is about 15 with room for six or so standing at the bar. In colder weather, the Custalows bring a few more tables inside and can comfortably seat a maximum of 24.
“We love the cozy, little atmosphere” of our tasting room, said Ginger.
The artifacts on exhibit there, “range from 1,000 to 11,000 years old,” she added.
Along with music from 5-8 p.m. most Friday nights, the reserve hosts a Meet-the-Indigenous Artisans fair four times per year. There’s one scheduled from noon to 6 p.m. on September 7 which will feature handmade candles, body scrubs, bath salts and lotions, photography, homemade jellies, pottery and jewelry.
The wine
There were eight wines to taste on my visit including chardonel, chardonnay, petit Verdot and a petit Verdot and Sangiovese combination called Two Rivers, all bottled in 2021. There also was a 2020 petit Verdot, a 2021 Norton and a 2024 Seven Eagles, a bold blend of chambourcin and merlot. I had trouble picking a favorite.
The labels are designed by the Custalows and all are inspired by a Native American custom or story.
A bonus during a tasting is a mini history lesson from Ginger.
The menu
Unlike many wineries, Mattapony Reserve has a full kitchen and also serves as a restaurant with farm- and sea-to-table appetizers and entrees. Bison is the meat of choice in its burgers and meat pies or empanadas. A smoked salmon dip is a customer favorite, according to Ginger. The salmon is marinated in brine overnight and smoked over hickory.
The Custalows support local farmers and growers by buying as many Virginia products as possible.
“Our [food] is all homemade and there’s so much effort and love put into our foods,” said Ginger. “If [visitors] want to eat, we’d like for them to eat with us,” instead of bringing their own food as is the norm at most wineries.
The Custalows have gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options.
“A lot of customers when they know they’re coming will reach out and ask us to have certain items” if they have dietary restrictions, she said.
Ecotourism
The Custalows welcome visitors by land or water and have a dock at the winery.
The couple recently started another business on the property, adding a fleet of kayaks available for rent. Ginger and Lonnie also offer guided tours of the river.
Mattapony Reserve
1581 Mattaponi Reservation Circle
West Point, VA 23181
mattaponyreserve.info
Open: Fridays, 5-8 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays, Noon-6 p.m.
Available weekdays for private events
